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Japan

Simon Rowe

1 Goryokaku, Hakodate, Hokkaido

Hokkaido is the last island in the Japanese archipelago to experience spring. From now until mid-May, pink will dominate everything from Sapporo beer labels to department store window displays and news readers' ties as the island braces for another season of picnicking beneath the blossoms (hanami). Join the festivities under one of 1,600 cherry trees in the grounds of the Goryokaku, a pentagonal fort built during the Edo period (1600-1868). Admission: adults 630 yen ($45), children 310 yen.

2 Sumida Park, Sumida-ku, Tokyo

Hana means 'flower' and mi is 'to view', and it's been a city tradition as far back as any Tokyoite can remember to usher in spring with a glass of sake (or three) beneath the blooming trees of Sumida Park. In the park, east of the historic Asakusa district, you'll find cherry trees lining each side of the Sumida River for a kilometre throughout April. Take the Ginza subway line to Asakusa Station.

3 Ueno Oncho Park, Taito-ku, Tokyo

When April arrives, Tokyo's news-papers start splashing their weather maps with tiny pink dots to pinpoint the best hanami spots, which is helpful for the city's sakura otaku - 'cherry-blossom maniacs' - who are generally retired people with money to burn and who like to jet around the country chasing the blooms as they appear. Not surprisingly, many otaku throw their first hanami parties in Ueno Park, where more than 1,000 cherry trees line the main boulevard that leads to the National Museum and Shinobazu Pond. Access is via JR Ueno Station, Uenopark exit.

4 Nagoya Castle, Mizuho-ku, Nagoya, Aichi prefecture

As for most Japanese, spring signifies a period of new beginnings for Nagoyans. It's the beginning of the school term and the financial year, and it's when big companies such as Nagoya-based Toyota hire new recruits. It's also about this time that karoshi - death by overwork - reaches its peak as employees struggle to meet deadlines, finalise accounts and receive job transfer notices to far-flung places. Many feel that the short-lived cherry blossoms are akin to the life of a modern-day samurai: emerging as bright and optimistic flowers at the beginning of their lives, before wilting and being scattered by winds and showers. Raise your glass to Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa and his samurai, who built Nagoya Castle in 1612. Cherry trees are prolific throughout the grounds, which are best reached from JR Tokaido line Nagoya Station. Admission: adults 500 yen, children 100 yen.

5 Togetsu Bridge, Arashiyama, Kyoto

Hanami is said to date from the seventh century, when the blooming of cherry blossoms was considered an accurate indicator of the coming harvests. Full blooms would signify a bountiful rice harvest, which would be cause for celebration among the merchant classes. A sense of the ancient lingers beside Togetsu Bridge, where farmlands and gardens mingle in the shadow of Mount Arashiyama. Known also as the Moon Crossing Bridge because of its elegant design, it's a popular blossom-viewing spot and it's advisable to arrive early. Access is via Hankyu Arashiyama Station.

6 Heian Jingu Shrine, Nishi-tennoji, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto

This is one of Kyoto's few remaining Heian-style ornamental gardens (from the 794-1185 period) and was designed for holding kyokusui-no-en, garden parties during which aristocrats amused them-selves by composing Japanese poems. Its cherry blossoms are deep pink and draw hundreds of spectators daily. Admission: adults 600 yen, children 300 yen. Located in Minami Shin'en (South Garden).

7 Osaka Mint Bureau, Tenman Kita-ku, Osaka

One shouldn't associate the sakura, or cherry tree, with wimpish tendencies. Japan's national rugby team is called the Cherry Blossoms and the sakura motif tattoo has always been a dreaded symbol of Japan's largest criminal organisation, the Yamaguchi mob, which, incidentally, is active in the Osaka area. Don't expect to meet any gangsters at the Mint Bureau, however. It's open to the public for just one week while the blossoms appear and offers more than 120 varieties of cherry tree under which picnics can be enjoyed. Try for a spot on the banks of the Yodo River, a 15-minute walk from Kyobashi, Sakuranomiya and Temmabashi train and subway stations. Admission is free.

8 Himeji Castle, Himeji

Himeji city's hard-working fisher folk, farmers and factory workers take days off at about this time to picnic at Himeji Castle, a 400-year-old white edifice built by shogun Ikeda Terumasa. It makes an impressive backdrop to San-no-maru Park, with its 1,000 cherry trees. The first weekend of the full bloom is marked by a grand tea ceremony held in the park to the melodic backing of 110 harp-playing women wearing kimonos. Access is via JR Himeji station, with a 10-minute walk north. Admission to the castle is 500 yen; admission to San-no-maru is free.

9 Kofukuji Temple, Nara, Nara prefecture

By the end of the 17th century, the hanami parties in Japan's ancient capital had become a ritual popular across all social classes. These days, in the stately surroundings of Kofukuji Temple, it's not uncommon to have a band of well-liquored truckers on one side of your picnic blanket and a group of chain-smoking executives on the other. Seek some solace (and fresh air) in the shade of the temple's 50-metre, five-storey pagoda while taking in the blossoming sakura of nearby Sarusawa Pond. Access is via Nara Station on the JR Kansaihonsen line. Admission: adults 500 yen, children 150 yen.

10 Osaka Castle, Nishi-no-maru Garden, Osaka-jo, Chuo-ku, Osaka

Even if you arrive early at Osaka Castle you may find many of the prime picnic spots already snapped up. Savvy company bosses sometimes send new employees out at sunrise to stake a claim for the departmental do. This explains the large number of young men in suits snoozing away the morning on vast blue picnic sheets while waiting for their senior colleagues to arrive with trolleys laden with beer, sake and bento boxes. The castle can be reached through Tenmangu-bashi Station on the Tanimachi subway line. Admission: adults 200 yen.

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