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7 timepiece highlights from March and April 2024: from Lana Del Rey sporting a Jacob & Co. and LVMH’s Bulgari unveiling the thinnest watch ever, to John Mayer’s new relationship with Audemars Piguet

This spring John Mayer was made “creative conduit” for Audemars Piguet. Watches & Wonders took place in Geneva, and Kyle Kuzma sported a new De Bethune timepiece. Photos: Audemars Piguet; Keystone; @themikeec/Instagram
After a roaring start for high horology in January and February 2024, the watch world seems to have maintained its pace with a frenzy of activity this spring – not least because Watches & Wonders returned to Geneva for its 2024 edition.

Whilst the main event drew crowds from April 9 to 15 as brands showed off their key pieces for the year, stunning novelties abounded at other events in Geneva and elsewhere over the last two months. Bovet introduced a worldtimer that mechanically accounted for daylight savings time, and Bulgari took back the world record for the thinnest watch ever made.

Hublot brand ambassador Kylian Mbappé launches the Big Bang Uefa Euro 2024 official watch at Watches and Wonders Geneva in April. Photo: Keystone

Meanwhile, celebrities increasingly involved themselves in watches beyond the red carpet. Kyle Kuzma and Lana Del Rey flexed stunning new watch acquisitions, while John Mayer released a new Royal Oak with Audemars Piguet. Christie’s also announced its coming auction of select pieces owned by F1 legend Michael Schumacher. Most notably, Only Watch looks to resume in May after postponing in November last year.

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Read on for 7 of Style’s favourite watch moments from March and April 2024 …

1. Watches and Wonders 2024

Watches and Wonders Geneva returned for its 2024 edition on April 9. Photo: Keystone
Geneva once again played host to what is arguably the highlight of the 2024 high horology calendar as Watches & Wonders returned from 9 to 15 April, opening first to media then to the public during the weekend. This year, the fair expanded to 54 exhibiting brands, increased the days for the public from two to three and saw more than 49,000 visitors take in the latest masterpieces from the world’s leading brands.
Stars working with the brands also made their stop in Geneva – fair goers during the media days may have caught glimpses of – or the crowds surrounding – the likes of supermodel Gisele Bündchen, football legend Kylian Mbappé or Chinese actor Jackson Yee, among others.
Chinese actor Jackson Yee at Watches and Wonders Geneva in Switzerland on April 11. Photo: Keystone

At the fair itself, brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor and Parmigiani Fleurier offered refreshed takes on their classic collections, whilst the likes of Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC Schaffhausen, Hermès and Vacheron Constantin gave us more complicated and intricate timepieces than ever before.

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Cartier, Chanel and Van Cleef & Arpels gave us artful takes, combining the best of fashion, jewellery and watchmaking in one go. All in all, we expect the releases from the fair to set the tone for the rest of the year in high horology, but even if you missed what was going on at Palexpo, the Swiss city itself was abuzz with other watchmaking highlights as well …

2. Outside of Watches and Wonders

The Octo Finissimo Ultra brings the record for world’s thinnest watch (1.7mm) back to Bulgari. Photo: Bulgari
Perhaps the biggest headline-grabber was LVMH’s Bulgari, which released the new Octo Finissimo Ultra, taking back the top spot from Richard Mille for the achievement of thinnest watch ever made at 1.7mm. More than that, the piece received a COSC certification, confirming that the design marvel is also hyper accurate. To keep the piece from snapping in half at the slightest gust of wind, the watch is made from the Octo Finissimo line’s signature titanium case with a tungsten carbide caseback.
Swiss luxury watchmaker Bovet introduced worldtimer Recital 28 Prowess 1, which can mechanically account for daylight savings time. Photo: Bovet

Along the western end of the Geneva Lake, at La Réserve Genève Hotel, Bovet hosted guests at the Villa du Lac to showcase their novelties which included the worldtimer Bovet Recital 28 Prowess 1. This intricate timepiece includes a flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock, a 10 day power reserve, a world time complication on rollers and a perpetual calendar. Most notably, unlike most other world timers, this piece uses rollers adjustable by the crown that accommodates daylight savings time.

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Further down the lake’s west side, explorers would have been able to stop by Beau-Rivage Palace to take a glimpse at offerings from independent brands like Furlan Marri, Baltic, Doxa, Atelier Wen and SpaceOne.

Atelier Wen’s Perception Concept in tantalum, a very dense and heavy metal. Photo: Ken Kuan

A collaboration between French watchmaker Robin Tallendier and Hong Kong-born entrepreneur Wilfried Buiron, Atelier Wen looks to bring excellent Chinese watchmaking to the rest of the world, including the work of China’s sole guilloche master Cheng Yu-cai.

The trio were present as the brand unveiled its all-new Perception “Concept”, notable for its all-tantalum construction and striking purple dial. The metal is one of the rarest in the world, and is notoriously challenging to machine, making a full tantalum watch something to behold.

SpaceOne’s futuristic timepiece Tellurium is housed in a titanium case. Photo: SpaceOne
Meanwhile, spaceship watch purveyor SpaceOne – formally known as Argon, who ran into a spot of trouble on KickStarter last year – showed a stunning effort during the weekend, which they had already launched in March. The Tellurium focuses on the telluric complication, a rarely seen method of timekeeping using a rotating model of the sun, earth and moon to tell time, date and month. Featuring a titanium case, 42mm case diameter and a Soprod P024 H4 movement, the piece costs a competitive US$3,218.
Independent Swiss watchmaker De Bethune unveiled its new Kind of Grande Complication timepiece in April. Photo: De Bethune

De Bethune unveiled two show-stoppers at the Beau-Rivage, one of which was the Kind of Grande Complication. The piece combines the brand’s signature design motifs and complications over its twenty-plus years of history. The case features the brand’s signature floating lugs and a rotating case design, allowing the wearer to take in two dials. On one side, where the crown is at 12 o’clock, one can see De Bethune’s delta bridge and a thirty-second tourbillon in blued titanium, which the brand claims is one of the fastest and lightest on the market. The more classic blue dial features roman numeral hands, a perpetual calendar and spherical moonphase.

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The brand’s other key novelty was equally striking, especially on the wrist of someone we will discuss later in this piece …

3. No slowing down outside Geneva

The Omega x Swatch Bioceramic MoonSwatch Mission to the Moonphase was dropped right before Watches & Wonders 2024. Photo: Omega
Brands outside of even Geneva have been equally, if not more, active. Before Watches & Wonders, Omega and Swatch dropped another bioceramic bomb on the watch world as they unveiled the Omega x Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch Mission to the Moonphase. The pieces, coming in either black or white, somehow outstripped the hype of the Swatch x Blancpain collaboration (Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms) by bringing in long-time friend of the Omega brand, Snoopy, for which references like the Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary Speedmaster remain highly collectible.
Japanese watchmaker Citizen released a vintage-styled pocket watch for its 100th anniversary. Photo: Citizen

In Japan, Citizen celebrated its 100th anniversary by releasing not a wristwatch but an eminently vintage-styled pocket watch, featuring a textured white dial, vintage field indices and Breguet-style hands, all evoking the original Citizen pocketwatch released in 1924.

US watchmaker Fleming released Series 1 in tantalum. Photo: Fleming

Looking to the future, a new US-based contender in high horology joins the ranks as Fleming introduced its Series 1. Founded by Thomas Fleming, this first piece comes as a 38.5mm time-only piece but in rose gold, platinum – and the rare and challenging tantalum with vintage-inspired horned lugs.

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4. Celebs’ watch news updates

Film awards season may be in the rear-view mirror, but the world’s most moneyed continue to show out in stunning timepieces for their big moments. At the beginning of March, Reliance Industries scion Anant Ambani and fiancée Radhika Merchant kicked off celebrations ahead of their July wedding, where Facebook and Meta founder Mark Zuckerberg was seen with his wife Priscilla Chan admiring Ambani’s watch, which he identifies as a Richard Mille.

Speculation abounds as to exactly which model, but it’s likely that the brand’s signature design style (and perhaps the white case we get a glimpse of in the video) is what caught the couple’s eye.

NBA star Kyle Kuzma sports the De Bethune DB28x Purple Rain. Photo: @themikeec/Instagram
What’s better for De Bethune than showcasing a grand complication spaceship watch in Geneva? Having their other major novelty on the wrist of eclectic NBA star Kyle Kuzma, who is becoming something of a style darling. Above, he is seen sporting the new DB28xs Purple Rain – a stunning, violet surprise from the maison known for its heat-blued titanium.
 

Florals are in for spring once again as songstress Lana Del Rey gleefully unboxed her recently acquired Jacob & Co. Fleurs de Jardin – of which only 12 were ever produced. The piece itself features 178 pink sapphires and shows a garden teeming with butterflies that rotate using an automata movement.

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5. John Mayer joins hands with Audemars Piguet

Musician John Mayer was appointed to a “creative conduit” role with Audemars Piguet. Photo: Audemars Piguet
In terms of celebrity watch moments though, it’s hard to beat anything featuring John Mayer, especially as Audemars Piguet called on the solo singer-songwriter and renowned celebrity collector to design a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar.

Via a March 8 post on X, the release comes alongside the news that John Mayer would take on the role of “creative conduit” with the maison. Though this means we can surely expect future collaborations, what exactly that entails in terms of their working partnership remains to be seen.

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” features a distinctive “starry” dial. Photo: Audemars Piguet

The piece itself features a distinctive deep blue “crystal sky” dial finished with sharp angles and facets to evoke crystals, finished using the PVD technique to maximise the depth of the crystals.

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6. Race to the auction block for Michael Schumacher’s unique pieces

Former Ferrari Formula One driver Michael Schumacher just announced that he’s auctioning eight timepieces with Christie’s. Photo: Reuters
It’s no secret that the world of watches and the world of Formula One are deeply intertwined. However, that relationship adds a new chapter as Christie’s announced in April that racing legend Michael Schumacher would auction eight stunning timepieces with Christie’s auction house, marking the 30th anniversary of his first Drivers Championship win.
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph “Michael Schumacher” includes bespoke details in Ferrari red. Photo: Audemars Piguet

The pieces in question do include a unique Paul Newman Daytona reference 6262 (as any self-respecting racing collection should) but also includes the rarely seen five-piece Ruthenium Set from F.P. Journe, as well as two unique Schumacher pieces in the form of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph in 2003 – commemorating Schumacher’s six F1 driver’s championships at the time – and an F.P. Journe Invenit Et Fecit Vagabondage 1 Model from 2004.

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7. Only Watch’s return

Founder of Only Watch, Luc Pettavino, speaking at the charity watch auction. Photo: www.point-of-views.ch
One of last year’s major headlines was the announcement and subsequent postponement of the tenth edition of Only Watch, the world’s biggest biennial charity watch auction. Created by Luc Pettavino in 2005, proceeds from the sale of pieces from some of the world’s greatest watchmakers go toward funding research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy. However last year’s postponement came as a result of fevered questioning as to where exactly these funds were going.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata presented at Only Watch’s charity auction world tour at Christie’s in Hong Kong, in October 2023. Photo: Yik Yeung-man

It was announced that the auction would resume on May 10 this year, featuring minor roster changes with brands including Gerald Genta, Patek Philippe, Richard Mille, Zenith, Furlan Marri, Chanel and Louis Vuitton staying the course, and others such as Audemars Piguet noticeably missing from the lots at the time of writing.

Timepieces
  • The world of high horology may have congregated at Watches and Wonders this April, but Geneva also played host to Bovet’s showcase of its latest worldtimer, among other marvels
  • LVMH’s Bulgari released the thinnest watch ever made at 1.7mm, while De Bethune’s new spaceship timepiece was spotted on Kyle Kuzma’s wrist – but is Michael Schumacher really auctioning his Royal Oaks?